Kashgar Old City Travel Guide: The Silk Road's Living Museum

Kashgar (喀什) is the soul of the Silk Road. For over 2,000 years, this was where East met West – where Chinese silk traders haggled with Persian merchants, where caravans from India unloaded spices, and where travelers from as far as Rome rested before the next leg of their journey.

The Kashgar Old City (喀什老城) is one of the best-preserved Islamic medieval cities in the world. In 2012, after a massive restoration project that cost over $400 million, it was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. But unlike many “restored” old cities that feel like museums, Kashgar’s Old City is alive – people still live here, cook here, pray here, and raise their kids here.

I’ve spent weeks wandering these narrow alleys, drinking endless cups of tea, and getting lost (literally and happily) in the maze of streets. This guide covers everything you need to know.

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A Note on the “Restoration”

Before we get into the guide, one honest note: the Old City you see today isn’t 100% original. Between 2009 and 2012, the Chinese government demolished and rebuilt about 70% of the Old City. The official reason was earthquake safety (the adobe structures were vulnerable). Critics say it was cultural erasure.

The truth is somewhere in between. The new buildings use traditional techniques and materials, and the layout of the alleys is preserved. But yes, some of the “patina” is gone. That said – it’s still magical, and the people who live here are real, not actors.

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Top Things to See and Do

1. Get Lost in the Alleys (Seriously)

The Old City is a maze of narrow alleys (hutongs) that wind up and down the hillside. There’s no “right way” to explore – just pick a direction and walk. You’ll find:
– Wooden balconies draped with grapevines
– Carpenters hand-carving Uyghur musical instruments
– Bakers pulling naan from communal tandoor ovens
– Kids playing in the streets
– Women chatting on second-floor balconies

Pro tip: The area around Id Kah Mosque is the most touristy. Walk 10 minutes further north or west and you’ll find the real residential areas.

2. Id Kah Mosque (艾提尕尔清真寺)

The largest mosque in China, built in 1442. It can hold up to 20,000 worshippers during Friday prayers.

Visiting info:
– Opening hours: 10:00-14:00 (closed during prayer times)
– Entrance fee: ¥45 for non-Muslims
– Dress code: Cover shoulders and knees; women may be asked to wear a headscarf

What to expect: The mosque is beautiful but simple – no gold or marble, just white stone and blue tiles. The real magic is the courtyard, especially on Friday at noon when thousands of men gather for prayer.

3. The Sunday Market (Livestock Market)

This is the highlight for many travelers. Every Sunday, the livestock market (约普克巴扎) on the outskirts of Kashgar becomes a chaotic, dusty, incredibly photogenic scene where thousands of sheep, cows, camels, and donkeys are bought and sold.

How to get there:
– Take a taxi (~30 minutes from Old City)
– Or take bus K2 to the terminal station
– Best time: Arrive by 9:00 AM; the market winds down by noon

Entrance fee: ¥10 (market area)

Photography tip: Ask before photographing people. A smile and a thumbs-up usually gets you a yes.

4. Old City at Sunrise

Wake up early (before 7:00 AM) and walk through the Old City. The light is magical, the streets are empty, and you’ll see locals starting their day – baking bread, sweeping alleys, setting up stalls.

Best photo spots:
– The west gate (near Id Kah Mosque) at sunrise
– Alleyways in the residential area (north of the mosque)
– Rooftop cafes (see “Where to Eat” below)

5. Apak Hoja Mausoleum (香妃墓)

Also known as the “Fragrant Concubine’s Tomb,” this is the holiest Islamic site in Xinjiang. It’s the final resting place of Apak Hoja, a 17th-century ruler, and his family.

Visiting info:
– Location: 5 km northeast of Old City
– Opening hours: 9:30-19:30
– Entrance fee: ¥30

What to expect: Beautiful tile work, peaceful gardens, and an introduction to Uyghur Islamic architecture.

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Where to Eat

Kashgar is a food lover’s paradise. Here are the must-try dishes and where to find them:

Must-Try Dishes

1. Laghman (拌面) – Hand-pulled noodles with meat and vegetable sauce. The best is at Old City Noodle Shop (老城拌面馆) near the west gate.
2. Samsa (烤包子) – Baked buns filled with lamb and onion. Buy them fresh from the tandoor ovens in the alleys.
3. Naan (馕) – Flatbread baked in a clay oven. Try the sesame naan from the bakery on Seminary Alley.
4. Mutton Skewers (羊肉串) – Grilled over charcoal, seasoned with cumin and chili. Best eaten on Food Street (美食街) in the evening.
5. Yogurt (酸奶) – Thick, tangy, and served with honey. Every second shop in the Old City sells it.

Recommended Restaurants

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Where to Stay

Budget (¥80-200/night)

Kashgar Old City Youth Hostel – Basic but clean, great location inside the Old City.
– Good for: Backpackers, solo travelers
– Book: Via hostel booking platforms

Mid-Range (¥200-500/night)

Kashgar Radisson Hotel – Modern hotel 10 minutes from Old City.
– Good for: Comfort seekers, business travelers
– Book: Booking.com or Ctrip

Old City Homestay – Stay with a Uyghur family inside the Old City.
– Good for: Cultural immersion
– Book: Airbnb or via local travel agencies

Luxury (¥500+/night)

Kashgar Development Zone Hotel – High-end hotel with all amenities.
– Good for: Luxury travelers
– Book: Booking.com

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Practical Tips

Best Time to Visit

– Spring (April-May): Pleasant weather, fewer tourists
– Summer (June-August): Hot but lively, perfect for early morning/late evening exploring
– Autumn (September-October): Best time – comfortable weather, clear skies
– Winter (November-March): Very cold, but atmospheric with possible snow

Safety and Security

Kashgar has a significant security presence. Expect:
– Checkpoints at the entrance to the Old City
– Bag scans at major sites
– ID checks (carry your passport)

For tourists, this is mostly unobtrusive. The security measures make Kashgar very safe for visitors.

Cultural Etiquette

– Dress modestly – cover shoulders and knees, especially near religious sites
– Ask before photographing people – especially women and inside homes
– Remove shoes before entering mosques or homes
– Don’t enter the prayer hall of Id Kah Mosque during prayer times

Money

– ATMs are available near Id Kah Mosque
– Alipay/WeChat Pay are widely accepted, but cash is useful in the Old City
– Currency exchange: There are banks in the city center

Internet and Connectivity

– VPN: WhatsApp, Instagram, Google Maps don’t work without a VPN
– SIM card: Buy a Chinese SIM card at the airport or train station
– Wi-Fi: Most hotels and cafes have Wi-Fi, but it may be slow

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How to Get to Kashgar

By Air

Kashgar Airport (KHG) has direct flights from:
– Ürümqi (2 hours, multiple flights daily)
– Beijing (5 hours, 1-2 flights daily)
– Shanghai (6 hours, 1 flight daily)
– Guangzhou (5 hours, 1 flight daily)

By Train

The Kashgar-Ürümqi train takes about 24 hours. It’s an experience, but flying is faster and often cheaper.

By Road

Kashgar is the endpoint of the Karakoram Highway (KKH) from Pakistan. The border crossing at Khunjerab Pass is open from May to October.

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Sample Itinerary: 2 Days in Kashgar

Day 1: Old City and Id Kah Mosque

– Morning: Explore the Old City alleys (3-4 hours)
– Lunch: Laghman at Old City Noodle Shop
– Afternoon: Visit Id Kah Mosque and Apak Hoja Mausoleum
– Evening: Dinner on Food Street, then tea at Napoleon’s Café

Day 2: Sunday Market and Surroundings

– Early morning: Taxi to the Sunday livestock market (arrive by 8:00 AM)
– Late morning: Return to Old City, visit the Kashgar Museum
– Afternoon: Relax at a teahouse, shop for souvenirs (carpets, knives, musical instruments)
– Evening: Farewell dinner at Id Kah Restaurant

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Final Thoughts

Kashgar is one of those places that stays with you. It’s not just the architecture or the food – it’s the feeling of walking through a living piece of history, where the Silk Road’s legacy is still alive in every alley, every tea house, and every smiling face.

Take your time. Get lost. Drink tea. Talk to people. And don’t forget to look up – the wooden balconies and rooftop gardens are where the real beauty hides.

More Xinjiang travel guides:
– What to Pack for Xinjiang Travel
– How to Get to Xinjiang
– Is Xinjiang Safe for Tourists?