On the steppe, milk is a staple, not a drink. Xinjiang’s herders turn mare’s, camel’s, and cow’s milk into a roster of ferments and cheeses you won’t find in any city supermarket back home. Tasting them is tasting the nomad economy.
Kumis (Horse Milk)
Kumis (马奶子, kymyz) is fermented mare’s milk — slightly fizzy, tart, and faintly alcoholic (1–2%). Kazakhs drink it for health and hospitality. A bowl at a yurt is the real welcome. It’s an acquired taste: yogurt-sour with a wild edge. Sold in summer at pasture stands (¥10–20/bowl).
Cheese & Curds
- Kurut (奶疙瘩): dried salted milk curds — the nomad’s trail mix. Hard, tangy, addictive. Sold in bags at bazaars.
- Fresh cheese: soft, unsalted white cheese eaten with naan at breakfast.
- Camel cheese<.
Yogurt
Suan nai (酸奶)<< is great.
Where to Try
Pasture yurts (Yili, Bayinbuluke, Pamir) are best — fresh and free-flowing. In cities, the international bazaar dairy stalls and Yili-branded shops sell packaged kurut and yogurt drinks.
Cultural Note
Offering milk tea or kumis is the core steppe greeting. Refusing the first bowl is rude; take a sip and pass it on. It’s how herders bond — and how you’ll bond with them.
FAQ
Is kumis safe? Yes, fermented and pasteurized-ish by tradition; mild alcohol. Avoid if pregnant or strict abstainer.
Vegetarian? Dairy yes; some cheeses use animal rennet — ask if it matters.
Can I buy to take? Kurut travels well; fresh cheese does not.