The Food Scene That Nobody Talks About Enough
When people think Xinjiang food, they think “kebabs.” And yes, the kebabs are great. But Xinjiang’s food culture is so much deeper — it’s a crossroads of Uyghur, Han, Kazakh, Kyrgyz, and Mongol cuisines.
I’ve gained 5 pounds every trip. No regrets.
The Dishes You Need to Try
1. Laghman (拉面 / 拌面)
Hand-pulled noodles with a stir-fry topping (usually lamb, peppers, onions, tomatoes). The noodles are pulled to order — you can watch the guy stretching the dough.
Where: Every city. The best I had was in a random town between Kuqa and Aksu. ¥15-25.
How to order: “Big portion” (大份) if you’re hungry. They’ll bring more noodles (free refills on the noodles, not the topping).
2. Kebabs (烤肉 / Kawap)
Lamb, cubed, on a skewer, grilled over charcoal. Simple, perfect.
The difference: In Xinjiang, the lamb doesn’t taste gamey (unlike in the West). It’s grass-fed and young.
Where: Night markets, street corners, anywhere with smoke coming out of it. ¥5-10 per skewer.
3. Naan (馕)
The flatbread. Every culture in Xinjiang has its version. Uyghur naan is round, slightly leavened, with sesame seeds on top. It’s cheap (¥3-8), filling, and lasts for days.
The experience: In Kashgar, there are naan bakeries (馕坑) where you can watch them slapping the dough onto the inside of a clay oven. Buy one fresh. Eat it warm. It’s life-changing.
4. Goshanfu (抓饭 / Zafaran Pilaf)
Lamb, carrot, rice, and onion cooked together in a giant pot. The rice turns orange from the carrots and the lamb fat. It’s served with your hands (traditionally), but forks are available.
Where: Every city. The version near Id Kah Mosque in Kashgar is the gold standard. ¥20-35.
5. Samsa (萨姆萨)
Miniature meat pies, baked in a tandoor (clay oven). Flaky pastry, lamb and onion filling, eaten hot.
Where: Bakeries and street vendors. ¥5-10 each.
6. Dried Fruit (干货)
Xinjiang is famous for it. Grapes, apricots, figs, walnuts, almonds — dried in the sun. The quality is absurd.
Where: The Grand Bazaar in Urumqi, the night market in Kashgar. ¥15-40/kg depending on the fruit.
Pro tip: Buy an extra suitcase. You’ll fill it with dried fruit.
Where to Eat (The Real Spots)
- Night markets: Kashgar, Urumqi, Yining all have them. Loud, crowded, smoky, perfect.
- Noodle joints: Look for the places where the guy is pulling dough in the window. That’s the fresh stuff.
- Hotle restaurants: Skip. They’re overpriced and the food is “adjusted” for tourists.
The Verdict
Xinjiang food is hearty, meat-heavy, and unpretentious. It’s not “fine dining” — it’s food that fuels people who work hard in a harsh climate.
If you’re vegetarian… it’s tough. Most dishes are lamb-based. But the naan, the dried fruit, the melons (in season) — you won’t starve.
And if you eat meat? You’ll eat better than you have in a long time. For ¥30-50 a day.
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Published on Xinjiang Travels — Real travel advice from someone who’s been there.